The range of fabrics used for men’s suiting can be huge and quite baffling, they can range dramatically in benefits, disadvantages and prices. Basically, you need to decide what you are buying your suit for, the occasions where you intend to wear it, the warmth or coolness you will need in your fabric and, of course, your budget.
Each type of fabric will have pros and cons when it comes to look, cleaning, maintenance, wearability and price.
Wool
The Raffaele Grey Suit Slim Fit from M.J. Bale is made from 100% merino wool
Wool is still the most popular and versatile of the suit fabrics. Woollen material is a totally natural material and has many qualities which are ideal for men’s suiting. Wool suits breathe, feel soft, is dirt and water resistant, will not burn, and is wrinkle resistant and durable. A woollen suit can be worn in summer or winter in most climates.
Wool comes from the fleece of sheep and has many grades depending on the breed of sheep, which influences quality and price.
Wool Blends
Wool can also be blended with other yarns to produce an array of versatile and wearable suit fabrics, often resulting in more cost effective options.
Wool Polyester
The Euro Tailored Fit Move Suit Jacket in Navy from Van Heusen is made from a Wool Polyester blend fabric
A wool polyester suit blend can often keep a lot of the advantages and superior qualities of wool at a reduced price.
Wool Cashmere
While pure cashmere fabric does not have the body and ability to hold its shape for good suiting, a blend of cashmere and wool will add warmth and softness.
Wool silk
A wool-silk blend will create a lightweight soft fabric with a bit of a sheen, so be careful as sometimes shininess can make a suit look cheap.
Worsted Wool
Worsted yarn is made from long staple wool which has been carded and firmly twisted or spun producing a smooth and tough fibre. Worsted wool fabrics are defined by the number of times that the thread has been twisted and range from 80 to 220. The higher the number of twists, the lighter and finer the fabric and also the more expensive. The superfine fabrics are also less durable and require more care, so are not as commonly used for men’s suits.
Tweed
The Country Road Slim Windowpane Tweed Jacket from David Jones is made from a premium melange tweed
Tweed is a rough warm fabric which can have a plain weave, twill weave or herringbone weave. A hardy fabric often used for outdoor activities in colder climates. Today, tweed is available in a huge variety of cloth in varying weights and a vast array of colours and weaves. Tweed is a popular option for sports coats and blazers.
Flannel
Flannel is originally a woollen fabric loosely spun using fibre which has been carded or brushed to produce a soft nap in a plain or simple twill weave. It is often used in tartans.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a tough tightly woven fabric with a diagonal rib on the surface. Originally made from worsted wool and used in uniforms and overcoats, today it is commonly made from cotton or polyester or a blend.
Cashmere
The fleece of the Cashmere goat, is lighter and softer than sheep’s wool. It can be used in a wool blend.
Cotton
Cotton is a very popular material for today’s suits. Cotton is a soft breathable fabric but does tend to crease easily. Cotton blends, especially wool cotton blends are more easy care and durable and will hold their shape better and are ideally suited to hotter climates. A cotton suit is a less formal and a less expensive option.
Seersucker
Seersucker is a thin puckered cotton fabric. A seersucker suit could be a great fashion statement, but would not be a suit that you could wear often and would not be as versatile as a more traditional suit.
Linen
The Moss London Skinny Fit Navy Linen Suit from Moss Bros
Linen fabric is very lightweight and cool and ideally suited to tropical climates. However, a pure linen suit is not easily maintained as it creases badly, stains easily and to maintain a crisp cool look, must be regularly dry-cleaned. You also can only really wear a linen suit for less formal events, and not for business wear.
Polyester
Although often maligned, polyester suiting has many advantages. It is inexpensive, lightweight and durable and will not become moth-eaten. However, shininess and lack of breathability are serious downsides. A polyester suit can be uncomfortable to wear and look cheap. Consider instead a wool polyester blend for a more versatile durable and comfortable suit that is more budget friendly than a pure wool suit.
So which Suit Fabric Should you Choose?
A wool suit or suits made from wool blend fabrics are generally considered the most comfortable, versatile and durable. If you are budget conscious, remember that a suit of good quality fabric and cut will last and remain in fashion for many years. Your choice will depend on your budget, where and when you plan to wear your suit, and your taste in fashion.